Here's a simple distribution panel that incorporates two fixed-voltage outputs and one variable voltage output. All-round fuse protection is included and four on-board LEDs give an at-a-glance indication of any blown fuse.
The specs' for the three output are:

• 1 x fixed output for Electronic Speed Controllers (50A max).
• 1 x fixed 5-volt output (1A max).
• 1 x variable output - adjustable from 1.2-volts to whatever the input voltage might be (1.5A max).

Several design quirks dictated the final outcome of this circuit. Initially it were to have a 30A full-wave bridge rectifier at the input. The idea being that the bridge would still allow the circuit to work regardless of the input polarity, and nothing bad would happen. Though, one downside to using a bridge would mean a reduction in the voltage reaching the ESC. So instead of the input being protected by a full-wave bridge, a single 1N4007 reversed-biased diode is used instead (D6). It means you have to get the input polarity correct, else Fuse1 will pop and nothing will work. An incorrect input polarity means LED1 (D1) will glow - indicating that the fuse is indeed dead.
Another advantage to using a single diode, rather than a bridge, is that the maximum current is not limited by the rating of the bridge alone. Instead, maximum current handling is dictated by the copper tracks.

Refering to Fig.1 below, a piece of Veroboard is trimmed to size measuring 37 holes x 21 tracks. Use a 4mm drill-bit to make all the breaks where shown, then remove any remaing swarf with wire wool or a Brillo pad.

In order not to be confused with orientation, note that location A37 is at the top-left corner. Viewing from the component side, location A37 will be at the top-right corner. Being aware of this makes it easier when it comes to stuffing the components on the top side.

Components can be soldered in any order. Since this is Veroboard, it's inevitable that some wire links are needed. And since the links are the most boring component, I usually stuff them in first. Nine are needed, so single-strand telephone wire is ideal.
Note the orientation of the diodes. The cathode of each LED is denoted by a 'flat' on the body. Align it with the corresponding flat shown in the drawing. The cathode of the 1N4007 is usually denoted by a coloured band at one end of the body. Solder it at location S24.

The five capacitor locations, and their values, can be gleaned from the photos and parts-placement drawing (below). The positive (+) leg of each electrolytic cap' should be inserted where shown.
With the exception of the trimpot and the 1k resistor near the input terminal and the 1k5 resistor near the green LED, the remaining four resistors are mounted vertically. Their values and locations can also be gleaned from the parts-placement.

The fuse holders are fabricated from 'spade'-type connectors. Photo #1 show them prior to being soldered to the board. We're not talking rocket science here. It's just a small length of stout copper wire stuffed in the end of the spade, crimped in place, then soldered for added strength prior to soldering to the board.

The wire itself is the sort that is used for domestic lighting circuits. B&Q sell it as 1.0mm² T&E (twin & earth). It's sold per-metre. Better still, scrounge a few scraps from your electrician. Scrounge the spades from him, too.
Photo #2 below shows how it looks after they're soldered in place.
Note the heatsink on each of the regulators.

The copper tracks are only designed to carry a few amps. Shoving 50A up there is bound to make it fry. Tinning it first allows for a much larger current flow. Run a bead of solder on the positve track at locations S3 to S11. Then do the same at locations S15 to S25, and again at S30 to S35.
The negative track also carries a lot of juice, so it too has to be tinned from Q3 to Q35.

The photo below shows a prototype version. You can make out where the tracks have been tinned, but subsequent versions also use 1.0mm² wire which is tack-soldered to the appropriate tracks. This ensures the unit is capable of handling those high currents.

Photography is a black art. After messing around with macro and flash settings the best image was this. But if you squint...

Even in standby, with no loads connected, the circuit still draws around 12mA. Most of this is consumed by the green 'on' LED (D5). For this, and obvious safety reasons, I'd recommend a switch between the battery and the input. In my case I'm using a double-pole rocker switch. It's the sort used in autos', which means it's good for handling the required currents.

Refering to the drawing below, connect the source battery pos. wire to the input where it shows "+", and the neg. wire where it shows "-". In other words, the positive at location E3 and the negative at G3.

The on-board trimpot sets the variable voltage output. I got mine set for 2.2 volts, which powers four incandescent lamps in the cabin. Now because the distribution panel is powered from 12 volts, it means the LM317 has to drop around 10 volts. A 10-volt drop and 4x 200mA cabin lights means it's pushing the '317 past its half-way comfort zone. Hence the need of a heatsink.
Ditto on the LM7805. Although it's rated for 1A and it's only running a total of 16 LEDs-worth of 0.32A, it still prefers a heatsink bolted to its bonce.
The output to the Electronic Speed Controller is self-explanatory. Just be sure to use the appropriate rating for fuses 1 and 2.

Insert four fuses of the correct rating at their appropriate locations, then connect a voltage source to the input terminals. Next, connect a load across each of the three outputs. (e.g: a lamp, a motor, etc.) Now remove fuses 2, 3 and 4 in turn, where each output should turn off and the appropriate LED should turn on. An illuminated LED is indicative of a blown fuse.
Fuse #1 is the master fuse. It protects the circuit input and all three output circuits.

The on-board trimpot sets the variable output voltage at the 'Variable' terminals. This is adjustable from approx' 1.2 volts to 12 volts - or whatever the source voltage may be. Do not exceed a source voltage greater than 37 volts.

The photo below shows what happens when Fuse1 is blown.

'Twould be a sad world without veroboard, but there's no denying that it's not as versatile, or tidy-looking, as a dedicated PCB. Building with veroboard is sometimes seen as the poor man's alternative. But sometimes a simple circuit does not justify the hassle of etching a one-off board.
On the plus side, it can be made to look a tad more elegant by using a parts-placement overlay. With this, all you have to do is stuff the board where the components are already shown. Another advantage is that it reduces the likelihood of soldering components in the wrong locations.

The image shown above is obviously too large in the real world. It has to be reduced in size first. So once you've copied it to your drive, and in order to have the printout match the actual board dimensions, you need to set your printer reduction to 54%.
When you get your first printout, hold it, and the board, against the light, then align the holes nearest the corners. If you're lucky they should be pretty much spot on. If not, try adjusting your printer setting just one per-cent plus/minus either side. It's a case of trial-and-error for each individual printer. But starting with 54% will put you in the right numbers.

Once you're armed with the correct setting, make a final printout on gloss photo paper. Roughly trim it to size, but leave approx 5mm around the perimeter. Paste the board and the printout with Pritt-Stick, then align / stick them together. Try not to get glue on the printed side, because it sticks like you-know-what and looks pug-ugly.
Trim off the excess overhang.

Pushing them skinny legs of resistors, etc, through plain-paper overlay is easy. Pushing them through gloss paper isn't. Jab a needle through there first.